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Sustenance for the Poor: How the Rise of Potatoes Fueled the Rise of the West

Tyler Matsunaga

 

13,000-14,000 years ago, in the Andes Mountains, indigenous South American people began consuming what is now the fifth most important crop in the world, potatoes.[1] Members of the nightshade family, potatoes (solanum tuberosum) originally contained harmful alkaloids, including solanine and tomatine, toxins that were not broken down by heat. Because of this caveat, indigenous people were unable to safely consume potatoes until they discovered ways to combat these properties. The residents of the Andes discovered the method originally used to consume potatoes through observing vicuñas and guanacos, relatives of the llama, that would consume clay alongside potatoes. Through this process, the toxins would stick to the particles of clay during the digestion process, thereby passing through the digestive system without being absorbed by the body. Through this innovation, Andean farmers were able to selectively breed potatoes that were less and less toxic, eventually eliminating the need to consume clay alongside the potatoes. Despite this breeding process, however, potatoes in the Andes were not monolithic, as different varieties grew under different conditions, particularly in terms of elevation, meaning thousands of varieties of potatoes were consumed in this region.

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Depiction of interaction between Spanish conquistadors and indigenous people, emphasizing the Spanish introduction to the potato.

Another aspect that allowed potato cultivation and consumption to proliferate in the Andes region was the ability for indigenous people to preserve potatoes. Through a process of overnight freezing and daylight heating, potatoes became easy to compress, removing all water content from them and creating what natives called chuño. Following this compression, potatoes could be stored underground, permanently frozen, for several years, allowing indigenous people to survive poor harvests. Later in history, chuño became a staple in the Inca Empire, used to sustain the Inca army.[2] During the reign of the Inca Empire, Francisco Pizzaro and the Spanish conquistadors entered South America and likely had their first encounters with potatoes, in the 1520s and 30s.[3] Despite this likely contact, none of these individuals recorded information about them, however, their first reference in the historical record being made just a few years later by Jiménez de Quesada.[4] In the New World, potatoes became an important part of Spanish life, as they used chuño and other forms of potato to feed the people they enslaved for work in the Potosí silver mines in Bolivia. With the silver mined from Potosí, the Spanish global power and influence spread, allowing them to impose aspects of their culture throughout Europe and beyond.


The rise of Spanish power coincided with the arrival of potatoes to Europe, moving from South America to the Caribbean, where it eventually moved across the Atlantic into the Canary Islands and Europe by the 1560s.[5] Throughout the rest of the century, supply lines originating in Spain resulted in potato’s proliferation through Italy, Germany, Switzerland, France, and the Low Countries. Additionally, potato’s increasing popularity was also derived from its key role reducing famines, as potatoes provided high caloric yield and addressed problems that Europe was facing with an increasing population, as the population exploded from 140 million to 266 million in the century between 1750 and 1850.[6] Potatoes were grown as part of crop cycles, which reduced soil depletion by increasing the variety of plants cultivated. Greater variety of plants, in turn, offered more protection against famines.[7] Potatoes became instrumental to British society in the mid-seventeenth century, particularly in Scotland and Ireland. By the end of the century, many considered potatoes to be the future of food in England, especially in famine prevention. In 1775, France’s King Louis XVI

lifted prices on grain, resulting in massive price spikes and the Flour War, during which numerous uprisings occurred in villages across the country. In order to combat the famine that resulted from the price increase, Antoine-Augustin Parmentier, a major proponent of potatoes, waged campaigns designed to promote the potato as a substitute for grain/bread, effectively introducing potatoes into the diet and culture in France.[8]

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The movement of potatoes, from the Andes to Europe and beyond.

 

Parmentier’s promotion of potatoes effectively contributed to the spread of potatoes throughout Europe. One important caveat, however, is that the method he employed, which used pieces of previous potatoes to grow additional ones (instead of planting from seeds), reduced genetic diversity.[9] This meant that potatoes in Europe lacked a gene pool that could effectively reduce the spread of blight and disease. As a result, potato crops were vulnerable to outbreaks that contaminated the fields. Originating in Belgium in 1844 and spreading across the continent over the following several years, the potato blight wreaked havoc throughout the continent.[10] In Ireland, where crop failure combined with poor living conditions derived from the British conquest of Ireland in the mid-seventeenth, the potato blight had devastating consequences. Since the potato had become the most important staple of the Irish diet (in part because it was one of the few crops that grew in the poor soils of the island), the blight that spread across Europe wiped out nearly 88% of the Irish potato crop after it reached the island in late summer 1845.[11] Throughout the next several years, further disease and poor harvests ravaged the country, having the greatest impact on the poor who relied on potatoes as a cheap and easily growable crop. Mass exodus of Irish men and women, who left for the U.S. and Canada, was one of the key outcomes of Ireland’s potato blight.

 

Finally, potatoes played a crucial role in the development of other commodities and industries. As a crop, potatoes benefited greatly from improvements in agricultural development. The first major supporting commodity was that of guano. From the Chincha Islands, Peruvian guano became a major factor that allowed potato cultivation to rapidly expand to the degree that it did.[12] Enriching the soil with nutrients allowed for increased prosperity, driving the population growth of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Additionally, potato cultivation also drove the rise of the pesticide industry. Beginning in the 1860’s, the potato beetle became a scourge for farmers growing potatoes across the United States. In experimenting with repelling these beetles, green paint, given its color through arsenic and copper, was found to repel the pests. From this discovery, isolated compounds of arsenic and copper sulfate gave rise to the pesticide industry that revolutionized mass crop production.[13]

 

Therefore, potatoes represent an agricultural product from the New World that revolutionized the world. After getting through the initial hesitancy to embrace the crop, mainly due to Iberian dominance across Europe, potatoes became a staple crop that was a major factor in Europe’s rising population. The effect of the potato blight in Europe, especially in Ireland, highlights the great depth to which potatoes were ingrained in its culture and drove patterns of migration in its absence. Potato’s rise in the United States, as an import from Ireland, marked its return to its native continent, highlighting its status as an Atlantic commodity that crossed the ocean first traveling east and then sailing back to the Americas. By the time it became a staple in the United States, the originally Andean potato was well on its way to becoming the global commodity that it has for a long time been.

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Notes

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[1] Mann, Charles C. “How the Potato Changed the World.” Smithsonian Magazine, November 2011. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/how-the-potato-changed-the-world-108470605/.

[2] Mann, “How the Potato Changed the World.”

[3] Smith, Andrew F. Potato: A Global History. Reaktion Books, 2014. 15.

[4] Smith. Potato. 18.

[5] Smith. Potato. 25.

[6] Smith. Potato. 36.

[7] Mann, “How the Potato Changed the World.”

[8] Mann, “How the Potato Changed the World.”

[9] Mann, “How the Potato Changed the World.”

[10] Smith. Potato. 38-9.

[11] Smith. Potato. 47.

[12] Mann, “How the Potato Changed the World.”

[13] Mann, “How the Potato Changed the World.”

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Bibliography

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