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Sidney W. Mintz, Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History (New York: Penguin Books, 1986)

Matthew Burnett & Serena Uliano
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Sidney Mintz’s Sweetness and Power illustrates sugar’s global importance in Old and New World societies but keenly focuses on sugar’s significance in Britain. However, sugar production and consumption did not begin in Britain; rather, its story as a major commodity starts in the Spanish colonies in the Caribbean, where sugar cultivation was rampant. Christopher Columbus brought sugar cane, the crop that yields sugar, with him on his second voyage to the New World in 1493. From there, sugar cane production began in Spanish Santo Domingo as early as 1505 and then spread throughout Spain’s other Caribbean colonies. Cultivating sugar cane was difficult and labor-intensive. To meet sugar cane production demands, enslaved Africans became a primary source of labor. Most slaves came from Africa, making the perilous journey of crossing the Atlantic to work in New World sugar production. It was not long until Old World societies, particularly the British, wanted entry into the world of sugar. Once the British settled in Barbados in 1627, they became intensely involved with sugar production. At first, in Britain, sugar was a luxury commodity, with only the royalty and rich having access to it. Over time, however, economic and social practices started to change in British society, especially with industrialization and the desire for tea, so sugar became an accessible and affordable product for the rich and poor alike. Ultimately, the sugar phenomenon in Britain transformed its society and culture, and still today, influences eating and social practices.


The versatility of sugar proved paramount to its international value. According to Mintz, sugar has had five main uses: spice, medicine, decoration, sweetener, and preservative. One of the earliest known uses for sugar was medicine. Physicians in Persia first used sugar as humoral medicine, which then spread to Europe during medieval times. It was prescribed for fevers, dry coughs, chapped lips, stomach aches, and more. However, as sugar was expensive it was not widely available, so honey was often used instead. After medicine, sugar became known throughout Europe, and Britain in particular, as a spice. The defining

Slave cutting sugar cane

characteristic of sugar as a spice was the amount used compared to other ingredients. The English diet in the twelfth century was bland and basic, being primarily bread with some meat, dairy, vegetables, or fruit. Sugar changed how the food tasted in small amounts, like other spices such as nutmeg or saffron. The next phase of sugar’s evolution was as a decoration. Sugar as a decoration began in the sixteenth century and started as a symbol of nobility. Special pastes were made from sugar, and these pastes were able to be formed into sculptures. The sculptures were at special events such as parties or coronations, and onlookers could admire them before eating them. The sugar sculptures served as a symbol of power and are key links between sweetness and power. As a sweetener, sugar’s importance relates to the rise of three beverages bitter on their own: tea, chocolate, and coffee. To make these drinks more palatable, consumers added sugar to them, especially the British. Initially, only the wealthy consumed these drinks in Britain, with chocolate being the favored but more expensive choice. Eventually, all three beverages became accessible for Britain’s working class and poor, with tea being both their preferred and cheaper option. Meanwhile, sugar’s value as a preservative had varied usages globally, but two prominent uses were evident in Britain. Before the nineteenth century, delicacies like preserved fruit were luxury items that the British royalty and wealthy enjoyed. However, as industrialization raged in nineteenth-century Britain, preserved fruit became mass-produced, so the working class and poor in Britain had the opportunity to savor these goods. As time progressed, so too did the availability of items. No longer was an item too costly, making it inaccessible to one class; rather, everyone had access to sugar and items associated with the commodity. 

 

Mintz emphasizes sugar’s transition from a luxury to a commonplace good in British society. Today, sugar is ubiquitous both in Britain and worldwide, but it was not always that way. Sugar was initially a symbol of luxury, and “during the thirteenth century…its price put it beyond the reach of all but the wealthiest” (loc. 1824-1825). Through the seventeenth century, sugar held a place at the wealthy’s tables, being the ultimate symbol of status. Kings such as Henry IV and Henry VI had large decorations made of sugar for their coronations, and they were not alone as “…kings and archbishops were displaying magnificent sugar castles and mounted knights” (loc. 2036). As sugar production increased, Britain had more and more sugar imported. This increased supply lowered the cost and made it available to the middle and lower class. The first use of sugar by the lower classes was to sweeten tea consumed on work breaks. Over time, what started as a simple addition to a work-time “snack” led to a huge rise in caloric consumption of sugar. Sugar began to appear in more and more foods, and soon it was an essential part of everyone’s diet. By 1850, the poorer classes consumed more sugar than the wealthy due to its abundance in everyday foods. Thus, sugar was fully transformed into a commonplace good, completing its evolution to the sugar known today.

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Representation of the sugar-making process based on sixteenth-century description of the sugar-cane industry in Santo Domingo

Boiling houses where the sugar cane juice was boiled down to make sugar crystals.

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